The 2009 Lagrein Berger Gei is a big wine endowed with considerable muscle in its dark red fruit, earthiness, leather and licorice. The 2009 is a bit of a stylistic departure for Niedrist. The wine shows less French oak influence, which allows the fruit to show the full breadth of its sumptuous personality. I especially like the harmony and opulence of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I have long been a fan of Niedrist’s Lagrein, but this year I was impressed with the entire range. These gorgeous wines deserve serious attention. Importers: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159