The estate’s 2005 Barolo Cicala is a transparent, mid-weight wine redolent of dark fruit, spices, minerals and licorice, all of which come together in the glass with superb elegance. Here the tannins are decidedly firmer and bigger than in the Colonello, even though the vineyards are just a few hundred meters apart! This powerful yet harmonious wine is simply radiant in its beauty. All that it needs is a little patience. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Aldo Conterno is back. After a period of inconsistent wines (by this house’s standards) in the mid- to late-1990s, Conterno once again takes its place among the region’s top producers. Today the estate is run by Aldo Conterno’s three sons Giacomo, Franco and Stefano Conterno who look after vineyards, marketing, and winemaking respectively. Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future. The 2005s are a worthy follow-up to the hugely successful 2004s, leaving no doubt that 2004 and 2005 are the finest back to back vintages here since the historic 1989 and 1990. The 2005 Barolos represent a new point of arrival after the estate embarked on a major rethinking of its work in the vineyards in the late 1990s, which involved among other things shorter winter pruning (designed to lower yields naturally) and a greater amount of attention to canopy management. In 2005 the estate harvested only a portion of each of its vineyards before the rains, while some of the fruit was brought in after the rains. In the end, only the fruit that was harvested before the inclement weather set in was bottled, so overall production in 2005 is roughly 40% of normal. On the plus side, there will be a small amount of Granbussia. These gorgeous, uplifting 2005 Barolos firmed up quite a bit in the glass, suggesting they are headed for a slumber that hopefully won’t last too long, as the wines are truly special. Stylistically the wines are made in the medium-bodied style that is characteristic of the 2005 Barolos, but offer terrific harmony and drinkability. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

Strawberry pie and cream aromas lead to a full-bodied palate. Very thick and powerful, with big, velvety tannins and masses of fruit. A blockbuster style. Best after 2013. 750 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add