The Real McCoy, from the standpoint of a massive, New World Cabernet. It’s hard to tell which aroma prevails, the ultraripe cassis scent of grapes or massive oak. Ditto on the palate. Gigantic, huge mouthfeel, an Incredible Hulk of a wine, yet it’s balanced. Too rich to drink now. Best to cellar for a decade and let it develop subtlety. ——S.H.(12/15/2002)—— 93