The 2004 Callejo Gran Reserva, from a great vintage in Ribera del Duero, is purple/black colored with a taciturn nose of Asian spices, lavender, incense, pencil lead, and blackberry. Dense and packed on the palate, it has superb volume and balance, power combined with elegance, and a 45-second finish. This outstanding effort merits 4-6 years of additional cellaring and will deliver peak drinking from 2014 to 2029. Importer: The Artisan Collection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 608-0722

A wine that reflects its northern Ribera location (Sotillo) through zesty, pointed aromas and some gritty char and minerality. The nose shows plenty of solid oak, chocolate and spice, and in the mouth the acids are a bit sharp and thus the wine is kind of spiky and angular. Still, it’s a very nice RDD, just not as generous as it could or should be. Drink now–2019. ——M.S.(10/1/2010)—— 89