Unfortunately, I could not quite get my head around the 2010 Goliardo Espadeiro, which comes from Espadeiro vines planted in 1962. It has a precocious nose of kirsch and lemon zest. The palate is dominated by rapier-like acidity that almost overwhelms the sour cherry and cranberry fruit. This is one of those wines that I hoped would evolve greater harmony with aeration, but if anything that acidity becomes increasingly shrill. Drink now-2015. Bodegas Forjas del Salnes is one of the most revered producers in Rias Baixas. Located close to the Atlantic, Rodrigo Mendez tends vines located on granitic sand with some phylloxera- resistant vines well over one century old. He is renowned for his red wines, although to be truthful only the Goliardo Loureiro fulfilled my expectations. But Rodrigo’s two whites were terrific and this is where I will commence.Importer: Peninsula Wines (Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte) New Rochelle, NY; tel. (914) 740-4724 and Carte Blanche Wines (UK).