The Santa Lucia 2015 Aleatico Gazza Rubina (375 ml) is a terrific find for those looking for offbeat dessert wines from the deep south of Italy. The red Aleatico grape has the thick skins and the natural sugar concentration to make excellent air-dried dessert wines. The fruit sees one month of appassimento in a well ventilated room before it is pressed. Power and character are the results, and the bouquet offers smokey tones of dried fruit, prune and spice. What sets this dessert wine apart is that it never tastes too heavy or thick.