The Boillot 2007 Montrachet (from the Chassagne side) is alluringly scented with honeysuckle, Persian melon, white peach, heliotrope, lily, narcissus, and musk; sets up a vibratory interaction of elements on the palate that is reminiscent of the corresponding Chevalier; and exhibits as well a similarly uncanny alliance of energetic brightness with custardy richness of texture. There is a dimension of clarity and what I can only call a crystalline mineral element in the Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet (but also in a few of the other best wines of that appellation) that I have never experienced from Montrachet itself. But while this wine may be in some sense more opaque than the corresponding Chevalier, its inscrutability is part of its delicious wonder. It's like organ music with all the reverberations of the cathedral, whereas when I grasped for a metaphor to capture the Chevalier, Boillot merely flicked a finger against the rim of his glass, a gesture worth more than any words. I certainly hope and anticipate that this Montrachet will be worth following for a dozen or more years. As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724