The 1994 Brut Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore, spends close to ten years on it lees before degorgement, and this extended stay is felt in its expressive nose of fresh bread crusts, white peaches, and minerals, its long and sustained flavors, and the subtle sensations of yeast, ripe fruit, and superior freshness on the close. The house is experimenting – with very positive results – a sparkling wine with some barrel aging, a sign that success, in this case, has only stimulated greater application, not complacency.

Careful selection of grapes goes into this wine – considered the grandfather of Italian sparking wine (and for very good reason). You’d be hard pressed to find another bubbly as well balanced and refreshing in the mouth. Green apples are the preface and nutty vanilla tones pop up on the finish. ——M.L.(12/15/2004)—— 92