The 2000 Brut Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore is an opulent wine bursting with ripe tropical fruit, licorice, smoke, minerals and spices. The exuberant, layered 2000 Riserva del Fondatore offers great clarity and detail, with a generous finish that rounds out the close. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Ferrari is an excellent source for fine sparkling wines from northern Italy. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Hints of whole-grain toast and soft raisin mix in this creamy sparkler with flavors of yellow pear, mace and toasted hazelnut. Fresh and mouthwatering, with a lightly smoky, subtle finish. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2014. 2,400 cases made. -AN

An Italian classic, Riserva del Fondatore (a brut-style sparkler) offers a compelling nose that is as intense as it is complex. The aromas here span dried fruit and nuts to toast and melted butter. Its appearance is sharp and luminous and the quality of effervescence is both tonic and persistent. ——M.L.(6/1/2010)—— 93