Many Italian wine enthusiasts consider this 100% Chardonnay their country’s number one metodo classico sparkler—the wine that sets the bar for all the rest. Yet the 1996 vintage has sparked controversy because of uneven reviews. We, however, loved its complex bouquet of honey, dried laven der, tealeaf, pear, bread crust and unexpected mint-like notes. The mouthfeel is intense, smooth and long on the finish. Imported by Dalla Terra. ——M.L.(6/1/2006)—— 93