Solaria's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and brooding in its plums, black cherries, licorice, tobacco and earthiness. The wine blossoms on the palate nicely, as the fruit gains volume and depth, qualities that follow through to the long finish. Though accessible today, the 2004 Riserva should be even better in another year or two as the tannins begin to melt away a touch. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769