Drouhin’s 2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze displays a brightness of fresh black fruits as well as an invigoration that is rare for its vintage. Bitter herbal, licorice, rose water mingle with the wine’s sappy berry concentration, and it boasts impressive length as well as the sort of firm but fine-grained tannin that encourages one to put some in the cellar for 8-10 years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770