This celebrated wine is not mind-blowing right now. It’s dry, oaky, tannic and soft. There’s a wealth of cassis and moo shu pork flavors, and huge new oak. Yet it holds itself back, teasing but withdrawing into its tannic cloak. Collectors, be reassured it’s worth stashing. Drink now through 2010, but after that, it’s a gamble.——S.H.(12/31/2005)—— 92