This is not a wine for tonight, or next year, or for at least the next six years. It’s shut down in tannins, with an astringency that can’t be overcome even with decanting, although that won’t stop people from opening it before its time. Buried beneath the tannins are well-developed black currant, roasted meat and cedar flavors that define upscale Napa Cab. Really fine and distinguished, a wine to cellar and enjoy for many years.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 95