So what's new? Once again, winemaker Paul Draper has produced five beautifully made, rich, distinctive Zinfandels. With 14.3% alcohol, the 1994 Geyserville, which cannot legally be labeled a Zinfandel because it contains 28% Carignan, 8% Petite Sirah, and 4% Mataro, is the most classy and complex wine of this group. It is made in a Mediterranean/Provencal style reminiscent of what Zinfandel might taste like if it were planted in the rocky soils of Domaine Trevallon's vineyards just outside the hillside ghost village of Les Baux. The wine displays a deep purple color, a big, earthy, peppery, smoky, black and red fruit-scented nose, and gobs of sweet fruit. Profoundly rich and full-bodied, this multidimensional wine possesses a layered, chewy palate, some tannin, good acidity, and a spicy, long, satisfying finish. Already delicious and complex, it should be drunk over the next 7-9 years. As usual, this is another terrific line-up of Zinfandels from Ridge. NOTE: All the wines in this article were tasted in May, 1996. Tel. (408) 867-3233