Black pepper, sealing wax, spices, and toast are found in the nose of the potentially exceptional 2003 Warre Vintage Port. A concentrated, backward effort, its youthful, classically ungenerous, masculine character reveals black pepper laced dark fruits. Silky-textured in its immensely endowed mid-palate, this top-flight effort displays an admirably long, tannin-filled finish. It will require serious cellaring. Projected maturity: 2030-2050. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

A fine, perfumed wine with great fruit. It’s ripe, with lovely rich flavors and a backbone of firm tannins. This is a good, solid, classic wine. Imported by Vineyard Brands. ——R.V.(11/15/2005)—— 90