The estate’s top bottling, the 2004 Rocca di Frassinello (60% Sangioveto, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot), is naturally the most concentrated of these offerings. It is soft and plush, showing plenty of ripe dark fruit, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak with excellent length and grip on the finish but only modest overall complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016 Rocca di Frassinello is a new project owned jointly by media magnate Paolo Panerai, who also owns the Chianti estate Castellare, and Baron Eric de Rothschild. The estate is actually a collection of five smaller properties that lie in the Monteregio di Massa Marittima appellation. Winemaking is overseen by Christian Le Sommer and Alessandro Cellai, who is also responsible for the wines at Panerai’s other estates. There are three selections made from the estate’s vineyards, which were first planted in 2000. The top two selections are excellent, while the entry-level wine, Poggio alla Guardia, is less convincing.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

This Merlot, Cab Sauvignon and Sangioveto blend is a bit thorny and sharp because high notes of black peppercorn, cola and pine forest seem to rise above the wine’s natural fruit.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 86