The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento bursts from the glass with an exciting array of sweet dark cherries, flowers, mint and licorice. All of the elements are in the right place. The 2006 combines power and finesse to a degree I have seldom experienced in the Col d’Orcia wines. Layers of fruit flow through to the huge, authoritative finish. Readers will be tempted to try the 2006 young, and so will I, to tell the truth. Although I would love to be wrong, the reality is that the 2006 isn’t likely to be at its peak until age 20 or so. This is a fantastic showing from Col d’Orcia. Anticipated maturity: 2026-2046.
Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is soft-spoken and reserved. He is also one of the most driven of Montalcino’s large landowners. A quiet, non-publicized conversion to biodynamic farming that has been underway for several years is typical of the way things are done at Col d’Orcia. Cinzano’s right-hand man, estate manager Edoardo Virano, has worked at Col d’Orcia since 1977 and has an intimate level of knowledge of the property and its history that is second to none. Col D’Orcia makes a wide range of wines, although it is the Brunelli that stand out most. In a typical vintage the Brunelli can be enjoyed a few years after release, but history continues to teach me that they bloom most fully between ages 20-30. Luckily, the estate has an extensive library of older wines that are re-released with some frequency, which gives consumers the opportunity to taste older vintages with perfect provenance, something I have been able to do on a few occasions. Readers may want to take a look at my video interview with Francesco Marone Cinzano as well as my article on a handful of older Col d’Orcia’s library wines, both posted on www.erobertparker.com
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