Another magnificent 2008, this tentative blend of the estate's flagship 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is impeccably layered from start to finish. I hope I can accurately convey with words just how vivid and alive the 2008 Poggio al Vento is, such a rarity for a vintage in which most wines are one-dimensional. Tar, smoke, licorice and menthol cloves meld into a finish laced with baritone depth. The Poggio al Vento is one of the very few 2008s I can say I am truly excited to follow over the coming years, and in the case of this wine, decades. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048. When all is said and done, Col d'Orcia might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2008 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team, led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano, have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Col d'Orcia was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit, I also tasted a vertical of the estate-s Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

This is settling into a nice rhythm, boasting fading cherry and strawberry fruit, with leather, tobacco and underbrush flavors. Still on the lean, firm side, but the tannins are slowly being absorbed. This could still use a few years of additional aging. Best from 2017 through 2030. 700 cases made, 90 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add