The honeysuckle and Grand Marnier-like 2001 Molina Real is produced from 100% Moscatel, but the grapes are left to dry for 15 days prior to being vinified. This offering is moderately sweet with sumptuous bouquets, intense flavors, and impressive purity. It is meant to be drunk young. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

There’s not a region or grape type that Telmo Rodriguez won’t tackle, and here he’s on to Moscatel in the deep south. This wine exhibits lilac aromas with hints of smoked ham and hard cheese. It’s not a perfect bouquet, but it is intriguing. In addition, look for a bulky but rewarding palate featuring chewy sweet fruit and moderate acidity. ——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 88