(15.9% alcohol; from vines between 60 and 150 years of age, grown at 5,500 to 8,500 feet; blended with 10% cabernet sauvignon) Bright saturated ruby. Pungent, high-toned aromas of blackberry, maraschino cherry, black pepper and violet. Sharply delineated, youthfully imploded but not hard, displaying explosive inner-mouth perfume and energy to the very pure dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Gets silkier as it opens in the glass, showing some suggestions of superripe fruit, but without any loss of clarity or lift. A powerful yet fine-grained and very subtle wine, finishing with suave tannins and superb cut and lift. Donald Hess's project involving some of the highest vineyards in the world is coming to spectacular fruition.

2 Big, dark, sweet and jammy on the nose, with earthy, candied, sweet aromas of ripe blackberry and herbs. The palate delivers bouncy, showy acidity, while the flavors of black cherry, dark plum and chocolate are solid and rewarding. A little pruney on deeper inspection, with a leathery quality to the wine’s depth. Drink now through 2013. ——M.S.(3/1/2011)—— 91