The private project of veteran winemaker Robert Brittan, the limited-production wines under his own label are treasures. This is his inaugural release. Both fruit ripeness and meaty depth are here in abundance, with a complex mix of tree fruits and stone fruits, streaks of earth and a fine layering of chocolate. This is a wine you excavate as much as drink; it’s full of surprises. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 92