The 2007 Pinot Noir Basalt Block is aging wonderfully. Still a medium ruby color, the nose offers notes of bramble fruits, white pepper, dried herbs and Campari with touches of charcuterie and mushroom over a core of dried red berries. The medium-bodied palate is bright, bitters-accented and juicy with a grainy frame and long, nuanced finish. This is drinking beautifully now and will hold a few more years in bottle.

Tasted alongside the winemaker’s 2006 from the same fruit, this shows both vintage variation and consistent terroir—the marks of a real professional. The complexity and vitality of the wine remain comparable to the riper 2006. Tart fruits, leaf, herb and streaks of earth make for a lively, interesting palate-pleaser. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 90