A traditional cuvee that's aging spectacularly, Chateau La Nerthe's 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape is comprised of 49% Grenache, 22% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the rest Cinsault and other permitted varieties. Aged mostly in foudre and tank, with 31% in small barrels, it reveals a healthy ruby color to go with meaty, mature notes of cured meats, Provencal garrigue, dried spices and sweet fruit. Classic, medium to full-bodied and loaded with charm, it's at point so drink up while the getting's good.

Produced from 49% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, 22% Syrah, 8% Cinsault, and the remainder miscellaneous varietals, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape (25,000 cases) reveals plum, licorice, meat, herb, and pepper characteristics, along with tell-tale black cherry and berry fruit in the aromas and flavors. It also possesses a fat, juicy texture, weight and mass, but sweet tannin, low acidity, and an accessible, fleshy personality. It should drink well for 12-14 years. Importer: Veuve Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575