A classic effort from this estate, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape (53% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and the balance Cinsault and other permitted varieties) is still structured and tight, with youthful notes of blackberries, garrigue leather and singed spices that all emerge from the glass. Medium bodied, focused, elegant and nicely balanced, it has a certain austerity in its tannin and acid profile, yet still offers plenty of pleasure. Drink this youthful, classy Chateauneuf du Pape anytime over the coming decade.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape (a blend of 53% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the rest various other red varietals) shows a much more spicy, earthy, peppery nose. It is medium to full-bodied, with wonderfully broad, savory flavors and a heady finish. These two wines demonstrate the total contrast in styles between the vintages. The 2006 is spicier, slightly herbal, but full, and 2007 is super-deep, multi-layered, but with more black fruits and less spice, at least at this stage of their development.Manager Alain Dugas, who has done such a superb job at La Nerthe since 1998, told me that they decided not to produce a Cuvee des Cadettes in 2007 because several of their old vine Mourvedre parcels were adversely affected by the year’s drought. Perhaps that is to their benefit, as the single cuvee that will be offered is a superb one. While La Nerthe has always made one of the best white wines of the appellation, it is worth noting that the very tiny production of white Chateauneuf du Pape continues to show encouraging progress almost across the board, as non-malolactic and cold fermentation techniques seem to be producing much more fruit and character in the wines.Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575