A blend of 50% Grenache, 31% Syrah and the rest Mourvèdre, Cinsault and other permitted varieties, La Nerthe’s 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape is a rock-solid effort that still has a youthful ruby color to go with classic black raspberry, toasted spice, licorice and hints of graphite. Brought up in a combination of smaller barrels and larger foudre, it’s medium to full-bodied, has a great mid-palate, ripe tannin and terrific length. It’s a classic wine from this first-rate estate that’s drinking nicely now, but will hold and evolve nicely through 2020.

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition (50% Grenache, 31% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault) exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a gorgeously sweet perfume of cassis, black cherries, smoke, roasted herbs, and licorice. It is soft, round, full-bodied, opulent, and accessible, which is somewhat out of character for this virile/masculine and tannic vintage. The 2005 Tradition should drink beautifully for 10-15 years. Chateau de la Nerthe, the only true Chateau in Chateauneuf du Pape, owns 225 acres of vines. Under the brilliant direction of Alain Dugas, this estate continues to carry on the tradition as one of the benchmark estates of Chateauneuf du Pape. With a history going back to 1784, this is among the oldest properties of the region. It was even referred to by the famous French poet, Frederic Mistral, who gave his name to the fierce, persistent winds of the region. This is the only Chateauneuf du Pape estate to use 100% new small oak barrels for their top wine, the majestic Cuvee des Cadettes, which goes against the prevailing philosophy of aging most red varietals in older oak. The red cuvees have long been top-notch, but the white wines have also been brilliant over recent vintages.Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Very attractive, gently lifted aromas, laurel and wild fruit, savoury too. Perfumed and pleasingly concentrated. Dense fruit and firm acidity. Understated but has potential.

For what is generally a ruggedly tannic vintage, La Nerthe’s 2005 is a silky, medium-bodied Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with a slightly herbal tang to the dark cherry flavors.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 89