This deceptive wine looks almost Pinot-like in color, but packs a myriad of flavors into its compact and raw frame. Rose petals, pomegranate, sour cherry, hints of cumin and nutmeg—it just keeps on going. Tannins are beautifully polished and the wine slowly unfolds, adding layers of flavor. Should improve for six to eight years and cellar for even longer.——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 90

Abacela’s tenth vintage of Tempranillo suggests it’s time to call the “experiment” a success. It’s savory and scented with cured meats; a spicy red that marries black currant fruit to pepper and more exotic spices—curry, cumin and five spice. Tannins are tongue-scrapingly dry, but is there a better match for a thick steak?——P.G.(4/1/2009)—— 91

Complex aromas mix a fragrant blend of soy, black fruits, chalk and graphite. The tannins—big, chalky and a bit rough—overshadow the fruit, which remains compact and tucked away. There is plenty of tart acid along with those tannins to warrant cellaring this wine for at least five years. If you pop it now, give it several hours of breathing time.——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 88