The 2009 Syrah Reserve Viking Vineyard emerges from the glass with juicy dark cherries, plums, flowers, leather and savory herbs. It shows a level of nuance, depth and sheer vibrancy that is missing from some of the other wines in this lineup. Layers of fruit build to the rich, intense finish. This is a terrific showing from Adelaida. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Over the last two years, Adelaida has become one of my favorites among the lesser-known properties in Paso Robles. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted, especially considering the sheer diversity within the lineup. A number of these wines deliver serious quality within their respective price ranges. A serious commitment to sustainable farming practices and gentle winemaking (most of the top reds are unfined and unfiltered) is starting to pay off in a meaningful way.Tel. (800) 676-1232; wines@adelaida.com

The 2008 Syrah Reserve Viking Vineyard is a big, bold wine loaded with blue and black fruit. Darker hints of licorice, tar and violets develop in the glass, but ultimately this is pretty tamed Syrah that shows the more elegant side of the grape's personality. Firm yet well integrated tannins frame the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Adelaida Cellars. Over the last few years the estate has moved to fully focusing on estate grown fruit. These mountain vineyards near the Pacific Ocean, coupled with a non-interventionalist approach in the cellar yield wines of real character that are also very fairly priced.Tel. (800) 676-1232; wines@adelaida.com

The most expensive wine, the 2007 Syrah Viking Estate Reserve, is big, full-bodied, broad, and juicy, with an inky/purple color and loads of blackberry and cassis fruits as well as hints of licorice, camphor, and pepper. The wine is layered, full-bodied, very impressive, yet at the same time retains its elegance and impressive overall purity. One of the better wineries in Paso Robles, Adelaida continues to turn out high quality wines that remain realistically priced. Kudos to winemaker Terry Culton, who continues to show a fine talent for producing quality wines from Adelaida Cellars.Tel. (800) 676-1232; Fax (805) 239-4671

Complicated in flavor, and totally dry, this Syrah has flavors of wild blackberries and cherries, licorice, herbs and spices that grow in the glass. It’s a soft wine made for drinking now. ——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 91