One of two Riservas with a gold label, the Parusso 2014 Barolo Riserva Bussia Vigna Rocche was born in a controversial vintage that proved quite challenging during the growing season but that ultimately delivered wines that exceeded expectations. This bottle shows a careful dosing of dried fruit and currant with smoky end notes of spice, licorice and campfire ash. The tannins are nicely integrated, and the mouthfeel is the prettiest part of the experience. The wine's garnet appearance is intact. Production is limited to 1,160 bottles.

One of two special Gold Label wines released now, the Parusso 2013 Barolo Riserva Bussia Vigna Rocche shows a hint of tertiary definition with old spice and cured tobacco with dried plum and dark cherry. It delivers generous fullness and depth and is more loosely grained compared to the more buttoned-up and tight Vigna Munie, the other Gold Label wine. This site is also located within the greater Bussia MGA in Monforte d'Alba. Only 1,366 bottles were made.

The 1999 Barolo Riserva Bussia (Rocche) is a huge, super-ripe wine that explodes from the glass with layers of cherries in liqueur, minerals, smoke, new French oak and smoke. This sleek Barolo marries elements of over-ripeness within the context of the firm, structured vintage. As such, it comes across as both ready to drink and also very young, hard as that may be to believe. In 1999 Parusso bottled Riserva lots of his Rocche, Munie and Fiurin Barolos, all of which spent an additional six months in barrel compared with the non-Riserva wines that were sold a few years ago. This is the first of the three 1999 Riservas to be released. Unfortunately the vineyard location is marked only on the cork and it is unclear how future releases of the other two Riservas from this vintage will be differentiated in terms of their labeling. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898