A blend of 85% Sangiovese, 7% Mammolo, and 8% Merlot, aged in small oak casks, the terrific 1997 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva del Nocio exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color in addition to aromas of lead pencil, jammy blackberry and cherry fruit intermixed with smoke and high quality new oak. There is remarkable sweetness on the palate, a lush, concentrated, fleshy texture, low acidity, and a long, spicy finish with a note of roasted nuts. Dense, ripe, and intense, it can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

A strong effort, the 1996 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva del Nocio is a sweet, full-bodied, concentrated wine with obvious new oak, as well as ripe fruit, impressive glycerin and volume, and a long finish. An outstanding effort (assuming some of the obvious wood becomes better integrated over the next several years), it has 10-15 years of aging potential, but is already revealing complexity and sweet, ripe fruit. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

As for the 1995 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva del Nocio, this is an outstanding, dense, purple-colored wine offering a superb combination of fruit and structure. The fruit is dominant, giving the wine jammy cherry, smoky, dried herb-like aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied and spicy, with moderate tannin, and impressive purity and depth, this stylish, well-endowed wine can be drunk now, or cellared for 10-12 years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The excellent 1993 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva del Nocio is a sweeter, richer wine than the 1994 with a deep ruby/garnet color, and loads of smoky, sweet, ripe, jammy black-cherry fruit intermingled with whiffs of new saddle leather. In the mouth, the wine is medium-bodied, with layers of juicy, succulent fruit, good spice, adequate acidity, and a dry, tannic, mineral-dominated finish. This wine can be drunk now as well as over the next 5-6 years.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

In view of the disappointing 1991 and 1992 Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos, readers in search of a good Tuscan red should look for Boscarelli's 1990 Riserva. It possesses a deep garnet color, sweet ripe fruit, dusty tannin, medium to full body, good flavor extraction, and a backward, tannic personality. Give it several more years of cellaring. Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900