Scents of crushed stone, cedar and mown hay meet cassis and blackberries on the nose of the 2019 Hermitage Gambert de Loche. Full-bodied, rich and powerful, it shows hints of alcoholic warmth on the palate and a long, spicy finish. While impressive, I'd be wary of aging it too long.

Named for the founder of the co-op, the 2018 Hermitage Gambert de Loche includes fruit from such illustrious lieux-dits as L'Ermite and Le Méal, although much of the blend comes from sites lower on the hill and further east along the slope. A whopping 70% matured in new, 228-liter barrels, while a further 16% went into new 400-liter barrels. While the wine is oaked, it's not overly oaky, with concentrated, dark berry flavors that stand up to the wood. Blackberries and cassis are complemented by hints of cedar and dried spices on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is expansive and generous in the mouth. The richly textured finish is concentrated and long. While not unapproachable now, this should only getter better over the next several years and drink well through the first half of the next decade.

A full-bodied, plush and supple offering, the milkshake that is the 2017 Hermitage Gambert de Loche brings all the fanboys to the yard. Vanilla and mocha notes accent ripe blackberry fruit, finishing long, creamy and lush. It should drink well on release and looks to have the substance to age 10-15 years. Over time, I expect it to firm up a bit and show more of its granitic terroir, but for now it's a modern, hedonistic pleasure bomb.

Named for the cooperative’s founder, the 2015 Hermitage Gambert de Loche is a fine example of L’Ermite. Yes, the fruit is super ripe, resembling plums and blueberries, but there’s a crushed-stone coolness to this cuvée, and while the wine is full-bodied and muscular, it doesn’t lack grace.

A significant step up over the Grand Classique, the 2014 Hermitage Gambert de Loche should be an outstanding Hermitage. Cassis, black raspberry, licorice and smoked herbs all give way to a medium-bodied, fresh, pure 2014 that shows the vintage’s more forward style nicely. Still, it should have 15 years of more of prime drinking.