Buttered toast and spices make up the aromatic profile of the 2002 Saint-Aubin La Chateniere. Medium to full-bodied, it displays excellent richness, a broad medium to full-bodied, silky personality, and copious flavors of smoked minerals. It should be drunk over the next 4 years. Importers: Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; Tel. (800) 525-9699; Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The St. Aubin La Chateniere has an oak-dominated nose and a thick, medium-to-full-bodied core of sweet white fruit, anise, and spice flavors. I was concerned about oxidative traits I found. This wine needs to be drunk over the next year or two. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

The floral and perfumed St. Aubin La Chateniere is rich, oily-textured, medium-bodied and filled with minerals, stones, chalk, and traces of honeysuckle. Anticipated maturity: now-2001. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

As a retailer, I frequently recommended Chartron et Trebuchet's St. Aubin La Chateniere to provide customers a good white burgundy value. The '95 again merits attention. It exhibits fat, extracted and concentrated roasted fruit with excellent structure and mineral undertones. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Trebuchet believes young white wines, especially his, deserve to be afforded the same right to breathe as red wines before being consumed. He recommends decanting them a half hour or more before they are served. Olivier Humbrecht of the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace shares a similar belief, convincing me a number of years ago of the beneficial characteristics breathing can add to his wines. The goal of this firm is to produce firm, elegant wines that are made for the long haul. These are not big leesy, flamboyant wines because Jean Chartron and Louis Trebuchet do not believe that style of white will age well. Trebuchet stated that "overly stirring the lees covers a wine's finesse and typicity more than oak ever could." Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

In nearly every vintage, Chartron et Trebuchet's Saint-Aubin-La Chateniere is better than most of the other wines. The 1992 is the pick of this generally uninspiring line-up of negociant wines. La Chateniere is not only a great bargain, but a wonderfully rich, medium to full-bodied wine loaded with mineral-tinged, honeyed apple-like fruit, lusciously rich, chewy flavors, and a long finish. The Saint-Aubin should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. On a positive note, prices are as low as I have seen them from this firm. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.