Here's a beautiful creation from Colognole. The 2011 Chianti Rufina Riserva del Don is delicate and finessed with wild berry aromas, blackberry, spice, leather and pressed rose petal. This is a pure expression of Sangiovese that is aged in oak for two years. Only 8,000 bottles are produced. Riserva del Don is a dark and nicely saturated wine with good length, balanced acidity and general intensity. If you are looking for Tuscan elegance, this Chianti Rufina will not disappoint.

Showing loads of individual character, the 2009 Chianti Rufina Riserva del Don opens to fine aromas of forest floor, wild berry and bramble. It delivers good concentration of flavors and aromas that ultimately help to broaden its appeal and breadth, especially in terms of mouthfeel. The wine is moving toward evolution with budding tertiary aromas of dried fruit and licorice.

I know it sounds unappealing, but occasionally (more frequently in Nebbiolo than Sangiovese) an unmistakable scent of fresh sardines emerges along with aromas of cherries, earth, leather, underbrush, etc. I found that characteristic in this lean but impressively constituted, dark plum-colored 1997 Chianti Rufina Riserva del Don. It possesses complex aromatics, excellent texture, and a medium-bodied, ruggedly constructed finish. I am not sure it will ever resolve its rusticity, but it will provide a big mouthful of Chianti over the next 7-10 years. Importer: Seth Allen, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700