The Vaona 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pegrandi is really quite pretty and nicely defined. It shows lifted aromas of dark plum and candied cherry with plenty of balanced smoke, licorice and tar at the back to flesh it out. The wine is densely concentrated and powerful but not in a heavy or overdone fashion. It maintains that lifted and bright character on the long finish. This is a breakout vintage for Vaona, made with 35% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. Production is 6,000 bottles.

This is a very attractive Amarone with a tight and generous core of black fruit flavors. From a slightly cooler growing season, the 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pegrandi is a blend of 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 5% Oseleta and 5% Raboso Veronese. The grapes complete up to 150 days of appassimento, which is longer than average for the appellation. This pretty, full-bodied wine offers contrasting notes of savory spice (with 16% alcohol) that are pitted against sweet notes of rum cake and blackberry liqueur. Some 8,000 bottles were made.

Compared to many other expensive wines, the 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pegrandi is a great deal. You get the characteristic intensity of Amarone with its air-dried aromas of prune, dark berry and cassis. You also get loads of richness and soft extraction to support the boldness of the wine's distinctive flavor profile. The alcohol is nothing to sneeze at, clocking in at 16%. Pegrandi is 40% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 5% Molinara aged in traditional botte grande for 36 long months. Indeed, the reduced oak signature will appeal to those who appreciate a tighter, but powerful style of Amarone.

The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pegrandi is a magnificent wine that offers the thick, sensual softness of thickly textured velvet. Dark fruit, prune, spice, leather, mesquite and balsam herb make for an intriguing and compelling combination. This is no wallflower wine: It’s thickness and power (16% alcohol) will stand up to aged Pecorino cheese with spicy candied fruit mostarda. Drink 2015-2025. Alberto Vaona farms ten hectares of vines located on hillsides that range from a comfortable 200 to 250 meters above sea level, trained with both the traditional Pergola and Guyot systems. The selection of top Amarones that carry the Pegrandi designation are consistently among the best in the region. Importer: Premium Brands Inc., www.paoloboselli.com