The 2006 Vermentino opens up in the glass with gorgeous candied apricots, peaches and baking spices that spin out of its frame like a ringing tenor voice. Readers will find a wine of breathtaking elegance and finesse. The cloudy color is reminiscent of the wines of the Gravner school and should not be considered a flaw. That said, this naturally made, unfiltered, unfined white demands the taster’s full attention in order to be fully appreciated. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011 This is another set of head-spinning wines from Alessandro Dettori. I admit I was surprised and frankly extremely disappointed to see Dettori nearly double his prices with these new releases, particularly given the current economic climate. Abandoning the faithful consumers who have steadfastly supported one’s wines over the years strikes me as a very dangerous and foolhardy business strategy. That said, it is impossible to fault these offerings for their quality. They remain among the most fascinating wines being made in Italy today. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200