Charvin's gorgeously aromatic 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape—sourced from the sectors of Cabrières (Nord) and Maucoil—features scents of lavender, garrigue and purple raspberries. In the mouth, it's full-bodied and concentrated, with ample, ripe tannins, then seems a bit warm and rough, with a wooly-tannic finish. Give this tank-aged blend of 82% Grenache, 5% each Mourvèdre and Syrah and 4% each Counoise and Vaccarèse a few more years to come together and settle down.

Based on a prospective blend tasted blind, Charvin's 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape looks promising. A blend of 82% Grenache, 5% each Mourvèdre and Syrah and 4% each Counoise and Vaccarèse, it offers lovely aromas of roses, tea leaves and raspberries that lead into a full-bodied wine. It's creamy on the mid-palate, then shows some stemmy notes and increased astringency on the long, minty finish. If it comes together after bottling the way the 2015 did, it should perform at or above the high end of my score range.

This tradition-minded producer has turned out a fine 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape. It's entirely whole cluster and 85% Grenache and sees only concrete for its vinification and élevage. The result is perfumed and floral, with stone fruit and cherries demonstrating the ripeness of the fruit. Yet it's also firmly tannic, suggesting some time in the cellar prior to prime-time drinking. This is a really fine effort.

One of the gems to seek out in the vintage is the 2014 Chateauneuf du Pape. Made in the fresh, elegant and focused style loved by Laurent, it has lots of white pepper, kirsch, incense and garrigue characteristics, with impeccable balance, fine tannin and medium-bodied richness. Drink it anytime over the coming 7-8 years.

The 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape, a blend of 85% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Vaccarese, is perfumed and classic on the nose and possesses lots of berry fruits, flowers, lavender and big minerality. Medium-bodied, focused, straight and closed, with the tannin front and center at this stage, it needs 2-3 years in the cellar, and will have 10-12 years of overall longevity. As with the 2014, the fruit/tannin balance will be something to watch here.