The 2000 reflects the excessive yields that existed in the Cote Rotie vineyards. The wine is not very concentrated, and is surprisingly austere and tannic. It is an elegant but oaky example that will not age beyond a decade. A principal objection with respect to Bonserine's cuvees is their high levels of aggressive oak. They are internationally-styled, with less typicity than other examples of the appellation. Readers may recall I have had the same problem with all Bonserine's recent vintages. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7184

The dark ruby/purple-colored 1999 Cote Rotie Cote Brune is extremely oaky, with hard tannin. It is unevolved and extremely woody. I am not sure if there is enough fruit to absorb all the new oak. A principal objection with respect to Bonserine's cuvees is their high levels of aggressive oak. They are internationally-styled, with less typicity than other examples of the appellation. Readers may recall I have had the same problem with all Bonserine's recent vintages. Wood addicts will rate this wine higher than I have. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7184

This wine performed well, although it is made in an oaky, international style, with less typicity than some wines of the appellation. The 1998 Cote Rotie Cote Brune exhibits aromas of olives, black currants, smoke, and minerals in its medium-bodied, moderately oaky personality. It should be consumed over the next decade. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

I was not terribly excited by the good, but pinched, one-dimensional 1997 Cote Rotie Cote Brune.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173