The 1998 Gigondas Cuvee Futee (a barrique-aged wine with some new oak) reveals a full-bodied, tightly-knit style with gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, toasty vanillin, and mineral characteristics. Dense, concentrated, and moderately tannic, it will be at its best between 2003-2015. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Deep ruby/purple-colored, with a more closed aromatic profile than the 1990, the 1989 is full-bodied, impressively endowed, rich, tannic, cleanly made, and backward. The wine is still closed and will benefit from additional cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 1998-2009. Last tasted 6/96.

The 1988 Cuvee Futee, which was aged in 100% vosges oak barrels, is a deeper-colored, more richly extracted Gigondas, exhibiting copious amounts of new oak in its nose and flavors. With superb underlying richness and fruit, this wine is marvelous to drink. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Last tasted 9/95.

The 1986 Futee (the debut vintage for this wine) is a rich, full-bodied, attractively scented wine (smoky aromas combined with cassis) that has reached full maturity. Although it reveals a certain austerity, it remains very fresh. Anticipated maturity: now-2000. Last tasted 9/95.