There are three barrels of the 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a lovely wine that mingles scents of lemon and orange oil with notions of freshly baked bread, dried white flowers and pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a fine spine of acidity and a penetrating finish.

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru consists of two barrels this year. It clearly has the best bouquet out of all the domaine's whites this year, conveying more mineral tension and complexity than the rest. The palate is very well balanced with hints of fresh pear and quince, a very fine line of acidity and just a subtle reductive note on the finish that lends tension and length. This is very fine and perversely, seemed better than the 2014 last year.

The 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a 0.15-hectare parcel from Girardin, needed some coaxing from the glass, perhaps yet to find its grand cru feet. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing fatness and weight in the mouth, the oak needing some more time to be assimilated with a smooth, harmonious finish. I'd like to see more mineralité, more of the rocky terroir to come through so that it can rank alongside the best Chevaliers of the vintage.