Deep violet in hue, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Gaby seems to be in a bit of a shell at the moment. It was singing from barrel 18 months ago when I last tasted it, but now it's less expressive on the nose, only hinting at violets, licorice and black cherries. It still excites on the medium to full-bodied palate, where silky tannins support balanced, elegant black cherries and mocha.

While the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Gaby shows a bit more intensity and structure (along with a touch more mocha-scented oak), it's essentially similar to the regular Crozes, with a nice balance of fruity and savory characters: black cherries and plums balanced by asphalt and black olives. Full-bodied and velvety, it should be able to age up to a decade from the vintage.

A bit closed at the moment, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Gaby is earthy and cedary on the nose, reticent to show off too much fruit. But it's medium to full-bodied on the palate, with supple tannins, a creamy mouthfeel and lush, plummy fruit, finishing with hints of baking spices.

Moderately more concentrated than the regular cuvée, the 2015 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Gaby delivers savory, meaty notes and plenty of dark-fruit flavors. It's medium to full-bodied, with plush, creamy-textured tannins and a supple finish, making it approachable now.

More elegant and focused than the straight Crozes Hermitage, the 2014 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Gaby has pretty notes of sappy flowers, wet stone and black raspberries. Medium-bodied, fresh, tight and energetic, it’s more narrow and reserved than the classic cuvee, but has solid purity of fruit. It will be interesting to see how these both show from bottle, but I suspect the classic cuvee will be ready to go on release and the Cuvee Gaby will benefit from short term cellaring.