One of the region's best white wines, Robert's 2018 Saint Peray Pur Blanc proves that altitude isn't a necessity—the century-old Marsanne vines are located in the village of Saint Péray, at the base of the appellation. It's reticent on the nose, with delicate scents evocative of crushed stone and rainwater, and then full-bodied but fresh on the palate, with lively flavors of pear and melon. It really separates from the pack on the finish, which is long, lively and cooling-refreshing, with an almost weightless character.

The 2017 Saint Peray Pur Blanc is sourced from 100-year-old Marsanne vines in the heart of Saint-Péray. While that may account for its appeal if you know what it is, I also loved this wine when tasted blind at the Maison des Vins in Tain l'Hermitage. Toasted marshmallow and melon notes provide a broad foundation, but they're reinforced and tightened by electric notes of white pepper, brine and citrus zest. Rich, long and intense, it should have a lifespan of a decade or more. Tasted twice, with consistent results.

From a 100-year-old vineyard planted to Marsanne (Robert admits there may be a few stray Roussanne vines in the mix), the barrel-fermented 2016 Saint Peray Pur Blanc shows exotic, tropical fruit notes of guava and melon, plus hints of toasted marshmallow and grilled pear. This full-bodied, rich white is drinking well already.

One of the finest St Péray I’ve tasted (along with Michel Chapoutier’s St Péray Lieu-Dit Payrolles) is the 2015 St Péray Pur Blanc. This wine is 100% Marsanne from 100-year-old vines and raised in barrels. This sensational white offers awesome notes of caramelized peaches, brioche, crushed rocks and white flowers. These give way to a medium to full-bodied, elegant, yet layered and rich St Péray that has integrated acidity and a great finish. A testament to the quality that’s possible from this appellation, it will keep for 10-15 years.

A gorgeous effort, the 2014 Saint Péray Pur Blanc dishes up terrific notions of white peach, white flowers, lemon peel and hints of pineapple in its medium-bodied, fresh, elegant and lively personality. The purity here is first rate and it stays fresh and lively on the palate.