The 2020 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has the potential to emerge as Duroché's finest to date, but I suspect it will require a touch more patience to hit its peak than the demonstrative 2019. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberry mingled with licorice, orange zest, peonies and sweet spices, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and a seamless, layered profile. Animated by a bright spine of acidity, it's a brilliant bottle in the making.

A magical young wine, the 2019 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with scents of peonies, sweet red berries, plums, exotic spices and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and melting, its satiny attack segues into an ample, enveloping core of succulent, perfumed fruit framed by powdery tannins and girdled by lively acids. The 2019 unites the immense charm of the 2017 vintage with the depth and concentration of 2015 in an irresistible combination. It hasn't yet shut down after bottling, and I'm not sure it ever will.

Deeper-pitched than the ethereal, charming 2017, the 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cassis and black raspberries, complemented by rich bass notes of licorice, loamy soil and black truffles. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with more tannin and fruit than the 2017 or even the 2015, all the while remaining controlled—indeed, in the context of the vintage, even restrained. This is a superb proposition for the cellar, but now is not the time to be opening bottles.

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is developing beautifully in the cellar, gaining in texture and dimension as I predicted it would. Bursting with notes of sweet berry fruit, cassis, dark chocolate and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with lively acids, melting tannins and—like many of the best 2017 red Burgundies—concentration and amplitude that far transcends what was apparent in barrel. There's still considerable upside here; and even though this is very charming today, it merits patience.