Deeper-pitched than the ethereal, charming 2017, the 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cassis and black raspberries, complemented by rich bass notes of licorice, loamy soil and black truffles. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with more tannin and fruit than the 2017 or even the 2015, all the while remaining controlled—indeed, in the context of the vintage, even restrained. This is a superb proposition for the cellar, but now is not the time to be opening bottles.