The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrière, like the Meursault Charmes, came away comparatively "uninjured" by the frost this season. It has a not dissimilar bouquet to the Charmes: well defined with orange sorbet and apricot blossom notes, a steeliness underneath that lends the aromatics focus. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry. The acidity here is nicely judged, maybe more tensile than the Charmes with equal length, perhaps just requiring a tad more terroir expression to evolve on the last third. Good potential and I expect this to land at the top of my banded score.

The king of the cellar, Mikulski's 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières offers up notes of pears, hazelnut, cut flowers and oatmeal. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, glossy and elegant, with a succulent line of acid, good length and depth, and more concentration, intensity and precision than the domaine's Meursault Charmes.

The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières seemed a little subdued when I tasted it from bottle, although with patient swirling of the glass, it reveals light hazelnut and smoke aromas, a touch of orange blossom. The oak is nicely integrated but I would prefer more vigour. The palate is much more compelling thanks to the fresh acidity and intensity of the spice-tinged fruit. You can feel the tongue tingling here and there is a sense of animation and energy on the finish. From its timid introduction, this Genevrières ends up being one of Fran?ois Mikulski's best offerings.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières has a lifted bouquet with orange blossom and fresh mint aromas that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced with plenty of salinity on the entry. There is good weight in the mouth with hints of shaved ginger decorating the long finish. This is a superb Meursault from Mikulski.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres has a light nose of dried apricot, undergrowth and tertiary aromas that swell with aeration. The palate is generous on the entry with moderate acidity, but it does not quite come to grips with the terroir as well as the Goutte d’Or 2011 on the finish, where it calls for more tension. Drink now-2019. It was a pleasure to return to one of my favorite Meursault growers, Francois Mikulski, a conscientious winemaker. His wines offer both broad commercial appeal and the complexity to satisfy aficionados. If I am being honest, I do not think Francois’ 2011s quite hit all the buttons, and occasionally displayed too much herbaceous character. However, they are keenly priced and from my own experience can mature deceptively well, though I think I would enjoy these wines in the flush of youth. Francois told me that he replaced his Gamay with Chardonnay, therefore 2012 will be the last vintage of the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain. Since 2008, Francois has made three barrels of Meix Chavaux, which is orientated east/northeast. No known American importer.