Mikulski’s 2006 Meursault Genevrieres – from a plot near to Poruzots – features brown-spiced pear and apple and nut oils. With more up-front ripe orchard fruit character but no less engaging, bright juiciness than its stable mates, this penetrating, superbly-concentrated Meursault finishes with piquant nuttiness and decidedly crushed stone or chalk mineral character. I would anticipate at least 6-8 years of interesting bottle developments. The diversely fruity, nutty, sappy, vigorous, mineral-inflected 2005 was no less impressive. Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70