From a 9.5-hectare, organically farmed parcel, the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is another of Collet's larger cuvées. Exhibiting aromas of orange oil, freshly baked bread, beeswax and dried white flowers, it's a medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise white that's matured almost entirely in foudre.

Aromas of citrus blossom, honeycomb and peach introduce the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, textural and charming wine that's giving and expressive but balanced by lively acids. It's already drinking well.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons wafts from the glass with aromas of green apple, tart pear and chamomile, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and expansive, with an open-knit core and a saline, spicy finish. It's a little flat and misses some energy, but it's a good effort in a challenging vintage.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Collet's 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons has a crisp oyster shell and wet limestone-scented bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is intense and quite powerful on the entry, a slight viscosity suggesting maybe a touch of botrytised fruit, yet there is impressive depth and concentration here, plus superb tension all the way through to the finish. This is what you might describe as a gutsy Chablis.