A fine success, the 2019 Chablis St Martin delivers notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, fresh bread and youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, layered and nicely concentrated, it's racy and complete, concluding with a saline finish. Some 15% of this cuvée was matured in foudre.

There will be two bottlings of the 2018 Chablis St Martin, and I tasted the first, which was bottled in February 2019. It's quite reserved, revealing aromas of waxy lemon rind, apple and anise, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and supple palate. I'd expect the later bottling to display more tension and texture.

Notes of citrus zest, white flowers and crisp green apple introduce the 2017 Chablis St Martin, a medium-bodied, succulent wine that's bright, charming and open-knit. It isn't especially deep or concentrated, but it's a pretty Chablis AOC that will drink well on release.

The 2016 Chablis St Martin offers up aromas of honeyed peaches, Meyer lemon and an exotic top note of petrol, followed by a medium-bodied, fleshy and gourmand palate with bright acids and a saline finish. A year after I last tasted it, this is showing quite well, and there is no reason to defer pulling corks, given the way the vintage is tending to evolve.

The 2015 Chablis St Martin has what you might describe as a "dainty" nose at first, a little timid, but it soon finds it voice courtesy of its apple blossom and fresh pear aromas, perhaps with a hint of peppermint in the background. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity. I appreciate the tension of this Chablis: taut and linear, quite saline in the mouth and this serves to prolong the finish. This is a well-crafted and very delicious Chablis from Gregory Viennois and his team. This comes recommended.