The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, pear, freshly baked bread, hazelnuts, pastry cream and white flowers. Full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's layered and concentrated, with lively acids and a long, saline finish.

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruit, clear honey, white flowers, toasted almonds and nutmeg. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's lively and concentrated, with a deep, enveloping core, racy acids and a long, precise finish.

A deep and complex bouquet mingling notes of mandarin, apple, pear and peach with nuances of toasted nuts, fresh pastry and nutmeg introduces Niellon's 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, rich and textural wine that's ample and muscular, with lively acids and a long, spicy finish. Reminiscent of a slightly livelier version of Niellon's 2015 Chevalier, this is quite open and expressive and will show well young.

There are five barrels worth of the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a brilliant wine that unwinds in the glass with a complex bouquet of Meyer lemon, dried white flowers, beeswax, pear, toasted nuts and fresh mint. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and strikingly concentrated, with a bright line of succulent acidity, a textural but weightless profile and a long, lingering finish.

Niellon's 2015 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru is superb, opening with a lovely nose of pastry cream, preserved lemon, beeswax and toasted nuts, framed by new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and textural, with a glossy attack, a deep mid-palate, and a bright, lightly grippy finish. While this is a powerful, dramatic Chevalier Montrachet it's very nicely balanced.