Jacques Jaboulet feels the 1998 Gigondas (14.5% natural alcohol) is the finest wine he has made from that appellation since 1967. The heady, seductive, fat, fleshy 1998 may be short on complexity, but it touches off all the sensors on the hedonistic circuit. It displays a dark ruby color, plenty of glycerin, and a robust, silky-textured, opulent finish. Drink it over the next 10-12 years, although it may last longer. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 1996 Gigondas is soft and pretty, with medium body, some fruit, and an elegant, lightweight style that requires consumption over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Jacques Jaboulet believes that 1996 was a better year for this firm than 1995. Both the 1995 and 1996 Gigondas are pleasant, although not terribly exciting. The 1995 Gigondas tastes peppery and lean, with floral, berry fruit, and a harsh, tough finish.Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700