The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is the high point of the range, unfurling to reveal a rich bouquet of confit citrus, peaches, white flowers and almond paste. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with the most concentration and length of any wine in the cellar, buttressed by ripe acids.

Smoky oak adds spice to the flavor equation, joined by peach, melon and citrus notes. This is just a little out of sync now, with the flavors and tannins on the finish needing integration. Best from 2013 through 2020. 25 cases imported. -BS

Full-bodied and creamy, with tropical fruit and honey character. It only lacks focus and seems a bit short and dull on the finish. 750 cases made. -